Coastal Engineering

Knowledge:

Students should have knowledge about:

• The processes that affect ocean waves from deep water towards the coast.
• How we obtain the statistical data for ocean waves from measurements and / or data based on weather observations and wave calculations.
• Water level and water level changes along the coasts.
• Descriptive statistics and extreme value estimation in relation to coastal engineering in general and waves in particular.
• The relationship between waves, currents and sediment transport / erosion.
• Practical calculations of erosion.
• Coastal Dynamics
• Numerical methods for the calculation of large-scale wave propagation
• Numerical wave models for near-field wave modeling and wave load estimation
• Understanding of when to use which numerical wave model
• Estimation of design wave heights and wave loads for coastal and marine structures

Skills:

Students will be able to:

• Calculate the effect varying bottom topography, breakwater openings and similar has on waves.
• Calculate sea state parameters (wave height, wave period, water levels), both in the short term and long-term perspective.
• Describe measurement systems for measuring waves.
• Calculating the tidal currents and sand transport in a harbor entrance.
• Assess the bedforms and their impact on sand transport under different wave and current conditions.
• Propose and evaluate measures to protect beaches from erosion due to waves and currents.
• Use the open-source spectral wave model SWAN
• Use the open-source wave model REEF3D::SFLOW for shallow water wave conditions and sediment transport
• Use the open-source wave model REEF3D::FNPF for deep water wave conditions

General competence:

The student has:

• A good basis to plan and carry out work in the coastal zone, with emphasis on the waves against the coast and sand transport and erosion.
• The foundation for being able to read and understand journal articles and other academic literature in this field; i.e. a basis for life-long learning in the field.
• Ability to judge when to involve more specialised experts.